Updated on April 15, 2018
Shelter from the norther
Baja has some weather. Unlike the mellow katabatic winds of southern Mexico, the Sea of Cortez picks up systems barreling down from the north, pulling with them 30-knot winds that churn up the waters. These northers calm down as the calendar progresses, until things finally start coming from the south–aka, hurricane season. For the moment, though, we’re still subject to the occasional Norte.
We decided to duck into the protected waters of Puerto Escondido. There’s a huge bay here that provides 360 degrees of protection from waves, although the wind still rips through the gaps in the hills. We put Milou on one of the moorings filling the bay and resigned ourselves to wet dinghy rides and howling winds for a few days.
To escape, we rented a minivan with our buddies on Nomi and headed north. The sweet town of Loreto lacks a good natural harbor; most cruisers arrive here over land. It’s the nearest, best source for groceries, and also home to the first mission established on the peninsula, back in 1697.
It’s a bit of a tourist town, and no mistake, but it was a perfect break from the rough winds at the boat. Back in the bay, dinghies were flipping over and our bow was being knocked all over the place, but we were snacking on chilaquiles and sampling paletas.
Our friend Mike is on his way to La Paz by now, sailing with our buddy Paul Exner from Acapulco; we’ll be taking the next week to get back and pick him up. Tonight, though, there’s cold beer in the sun, followed by wood-fired pizza with friends.